S1 Cannabis Seeds

heyy guys, I hear this term thrown around every once in a while, and so I gather it means Selfed? But what the hell does that actually mean? Like what's… E T H O S Even for the most experienced growers, the wide variety of acronyms, abbreviations, and nomenclature within the cannabis genetics industry can be confusing because it lack specificity.

S1 seeds

F1 seeds are first generation. Like a mix between two strains, the first (un stable ) seeds are f1) It takes at least 10 -15 generations of stable mixes to create stable seeds. But I may be wrong though

shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens

I know what an F1 is . But I think the generations to make it stable are more around 4-5. Thx +rep for help

So the question still stands, WTF is a S1?

Tricks
Well-Known Member

S1 mean selfed, first selfed generation. Now basicly what it means is you reverse a female plant and collect the pollen, pollinate the mother and or clone of that mother to get S1 seeds. You can self a male as well, or you can pollinate one female with a genetically different reversed female.

shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens

S1 mean selfed, first selfed generation. Now basicly what it means is you reverse a female plant and collect the pollen, pollinate the mother and or clone of that mother to get S1 seeds. You can self a male as well, or you can pollinate one female with a genetically different reversed female.

Tricks
Well-Known Member

Well, you would take the pollen from the reversed female and use it on its mother or a clone of the mother. Its a bit more complex then how im describing it, but thats the basics.

shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens

+rep thx for the help.

Hopefully someone can tell me how this is done?

frmrboi
Well-Known Member

that’s not how the pro’s do it, they use a chemical stimulant like Giberllic (sp?) Acid or Colloidal Silver this produces a more stable offspring (less pron to hermaphrodites) https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/78710-how-make-colloidal-silver-make.html

shepj
Oracle of Hallucinogens
Aruanda
Well-Known Member
HydroRed
Well-Known Member

Yes, S1 seeds achieved by a chemical will be female if a female is selfed since there were never any male genetics introduced.

CaptainCAVEMAN
Well-Known Member
Aruanda
Well-Known Member

Lulz!! That’s hilarious. Yeah I just heard of s1 and was like wtf is that, then found this thread on my google search and thought I’d ask. Pretty sure I knew that, was never familiar with ‘s1’ though.

Wilderb
Well-Known Member
droopy107
Well-Known Member
Daniel Lawton
Well-Known Member

I already posted some of this elsewhere, however I keep learning over time and want to pass on helpful info. I apologize to the seed sellers, because in fact, if you have just one of their feminized seeds, you can make hundreds very easily. Fortunately, most people are rather lazy and impatient, and since a $5-$10 seeds gets you $$$$$ in pot, hopefully the seed sellers will continue to be very successful.

I’m experimenting with making S1 seeds, mostly just because I’m an autistic nerd and want to know how. I have no plans to sell any (which is illegal in Cal.).

I have 10 autoflower variety of plants growin right now (in 2 locations to keep pollen from mixing). 4 of my seed bearing plants are using colloidal silver forced pollen from one F1 plant, spread onto another F1 plant who’s 3-4 weeks younger.

All are making seeds. Pretty much, if you make colloidal silver, spray until you see the male pods (you’ll be worried the first time, but once you know them you’ll never worry again), you will absolutely get pollen. And trust the pics on the net. If you’re in doubt, once they start to have darker lines on them (maybe purple), you’re in business. If they open up, you can use tweesers to harvest pollen pods, as long as you see several (4 or 5) green or yellow fibers in them (bananas). Don’t have to be yellow, just put them in something and let it dry. But in the long run, you might learn you don’t have to harvest them at all. It’s always easy to make a plant produce it’s own pollen! So why save the stuff?

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I goofed up on an AK47 and sprayed it even after the male pods formed, stunting pollen making. Everyone kept emphasizing how you might even have to spray it 3 times a day, so I went overboard.

Produced no pollen in the time I expected. So I ditched it to another room, not wanting to kill it.

That sucker is still alive today, 2 months past it’s predicted lifespan. It’s making so much pollen that I don’t even collect it. Looks to me like she might even pollinate a few of the flower hairs she’s managed to grow along with the really old pollen sacs. We’ll see. That would be a free S1.

One White Widow in particular is making huge amounts of seeds. In her case, she sat next to one of her own kind, 4 weeks older and forced to make pollen using colloidal silver. Then when the entire older plant was covered in male pollen sacs and most were bursting open, I fluffed it with my hands towards the second plant. It was a HEAVY yellow cloud of pollen. I choked from it! Now I can sympathize with those who have asthma from pollen.

Thus he’s FULL of seeds. Not only that, but the first plant that made the huge burst of pollen, has done it again and again and again. I’m going to have to sweep up that floor. Meanwhile, the plant I forced to make pollen grew some flowers anyway, and she’s pollinated herself.

In another case, I collected pollen first, let that plant mature and die, then tried to use the pollen on another of his kind (Lowryder#2). Both were F1. I got seeds, but nothing like the ones I got with that huge burst of pollen. I tried to paint the pollen on with a brush, only to find out, that doesn’t work as well as people claim. You get a few seeds per flower bud. And you can tell in 3 days if you’re getting any, because the white hairs that accepted pollen turn orange. But a ton of them don’t change color at all, and if you wait a week or two, you can see that you only got a few seeds. So the brush doesn’t work well, unless you’re handy with it and very patient.

I finally learned what I believe is the best trick for making seeds. Just spray only part of the plant with colloidal silver, let that make male pods, then let those pollinate the flowers on the same plant, where you didn’t spray. Just fluff it up when the pollen is ready, and there’s a ton of flowers.

I didn’t try that the first time because I thought that autoflowering varieties didn’t all live long enough to make seeds using their own pollen.

I was dead wrong. Take the times they give you for lowryder#2, AK47, Super Skunk, and add a MONTH to the actual life of the plant. The underestimate. Those 3 are all able to make seeds using their own pollen. Not to mention the longer lived autoflowers, like blueberry.

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One thing I learned about making colloidal silver. There’s a lot of superstition in that area. I’m hoping UC Davis’s new marijuana department will clear up some of the marijuana controversies.

In the case of colloidal silver, it DOES NOT harm the plant, if you follow good directions for making it (like on this forum).

Also, the TDS meter doesn’t work on colloidal silver. Or at least, mine doesn’t. I brewed it until it read 50, then for fun I brewed it some more. Read 50 2 more days in a row. So I took the 50 silver, diluted it with equally as much water, and it still read 50.

But, it doesn’t get a yellow/brown color like they say. Just go for that, works fine without measuring it.

Also, the silver wires you use, DO WEAR OUT. I’m not sure why people are claiming you can brew thousands of batches. Those little suckers wear out after about 5 batches. And after each batch, if you look closely, they’ve gotten thinner. To balance that out, switch + and – once in a while. One of them wears out more than the other.

E T H O S

Even for the most experienced growers, the wide variety of acronyms, abbreviations, and nomenclature within the cannabis genetics industry can be confusing because it lack specificity. The large spectrum of terms can be hard to parse and hard to keep up with, especially if you’re new to growing or getting back into it after an extended hiatus. Creating a consistent language is imperative for progress in any advancing field, especially genetics. ETHOS uses a specific nomenclature to reference all of our cultivars. For that reason, we’ve decided to clarify our terminology and nomenclature.

ETHOS Nomenclature
ETHOS was founded on the principle that the current landscape of genetics could be improved through standardization. For that reason, we have stuck to a very specific, consistent methodology for naming our genetics. Generally speaking, letters indicate the process by which the genetics were produced and the number indicates the generation and/or variance expressed by those genetics.

Here’s how ETHOS refers to its various offerings:

S1 – “Selfed” First Generation
An S1 is the result of a plant being crossed with itself, without any other plant being involved in the procreation. There are a variety of ways to induce this effect in a plant, but the general understanding is that any plant with an S1 label has only one female parent’s set of genes. The female parent pollinates herself or a clone of herself. This term is only used when a plant is crossed into herself. Any back cross or hybrid will have a different term. Often, the term “S1″ is misused in a broad stroke manner to describe any female seed which is incorrect. S1’s can only be those female seeds produced by a single parent.

F1 – Filial (Offspring) First Generation
By definition, an F1 is the result of the initial cross between two unrelated and stable cultivars. For example, Parent One (P1) and Parent Two (P2) could be crossed to result in Plant A, an F1 offspring. This is the first generation resulting from the cross of these cultivars.

BX1 – Back Cross First Generation
A back-crossed offering involves taking a filial and crossing it back into one of its original parents. Using our example from before, P1 crossed with P2 yields A, our F1. By crossing A with either P1 or P2, you produce a back-cross (P1A or P1B), either cross resulting in a first generation back-cross (BX1).

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RBX (Reverse Back-cross)
A reverse back-cross is a back-cross that involves a female pollen donor.

F2, F3, F4, F5 and Successive Filial Generations
What’s the difference between an F2 and an F5? F2 is when two filial from an F1 are crossed with one another. The goal of this continued breeding within cultivars is to stabilize the expressions of the plants, narrowing the variances to a handful instead of hundreds. If you continue this process, the next round is F3 and so on. (two filial from an F2 are crossed, resulting in an F3). In modern cannabis, variety homogenization starts to set in by the F3 stage. F4, F5 and beyond will likely be the most stable expressions of that particular variance.

V1, V2, & V3 – Versions
A “V” indicates a slightly different version of an existing cultivar. As expressions stabilize and versions homogenize, different versions are identified by a V and their respective numeral. A plant with two distinctive versions would be labeled as a V1 or a V2. You typically won’t see a V1 as the first version of the cultivar is its first version, regardless of whether it is an R1 or F1. A V may be used to identify cultivars who have been bred with the goal of an existing cross but using different parents than the original version.

For example:
Mandarin Cookies R1 (V1) = Forum Cut Cookies x Mandarin Sunset
Mandarin Cookies V2 = ETHOS Cookies x Mandarin Sunset (Second Version of Mandarin Cookies)

>> Leaves a void with only the F1 system. And very rare to properly use the term F1 in modern cannabis

Difference of Opinion
Technically, an F1 is a cross of two unrelated parent cultivars. So, in theory, that would mean that each parent would have to be distinctly unrelated to one another, even in its traceable lineage. In classic genetic models, this would look something like Purple Basil x Green Basil. But, given the hybridization of the genetics industry, are there any true F1’s left in cannabis?

Genetic models for classification that exist in current academia are based on 2 qualifications:
• That the parents are unrelated
• That the parents are already stabilized.

This leaves a massive void of accuracy within the F1 system. Very rarely will you see brands and shops properly use the F1 term in modern cannabis.

Less than 5% of the parents used in seed-making are genetically stable, and more than 80% of dispensary cannabis has one parent with some genetic relation to the other, and in more than half of the cases, the parents share significant amounts of genetic relation. So, while we refer to crosses from two unique parents as an F1, can we even predicate our terms and nomenclature on a preexisting construct that fundamentally doesn’t apply to this specific space of cannabis breeding?

ETHOS will always be transparent with its labeling and lineage of its genetics. This is how we feel genetics should be labeled. Everyone in this industry has a different approach, and this is ours. If you agree and enjoy the consistency and transparency of our product offerings, we invite you to subscribe to our content and sign up for the only genetics membership you’ll ever need.