seedling grow box

DIY- Indoor Seedling Grow Box

Introduction: DIY- Indoor Seedling Grow Box

I like to grow my own Herbs and veggies but in Mich its kinda hard to do in the winter, Plants don’t care for the cold by the window and I kill more that way, So I wanted to see if we could Turn a old & really cheap junk tool chest into a energy efficient Seedling grow box for under $10.00

And spring is just around the corner and allot of us are getting our prep work underway. I found this old junk tool chest and whipped into a nice little seedling starter & transplant grow box, It uses 55watt CFL florescent vegetation light, However you can put any light configuration or LED grow lights you feel is right for you into this small tool chest / Grow box.

I just used what I had laying around, As time’s are super tight with money for allot of folks. (me included)
If you have to buy the parts I am 99% positive it will not cost more then Ten dollars. It tooks about 3 Hrs from design to completed. Painting took another day. (optional)

There is little to no heat generated by the CLF. The chest works as a great Heat sink and when fans are running the box stays even cooler. As this build has a AC power cord on it you can use a timer with it. And or step one up on me and put self watering system in as well!

Warning AC current can KILL you. If you have no knowledge of basic electricity and 120 volt systems and want to build this find someone who does know! Never work with live wires or devices make sure power is off! This build requires the use of tools that can hurt you be sure to use eye and hand protection!

Step 1: Tools and Parts


Metal File
Tin Snips
Flat Head Screw Driver
Tape measure
Soldering Iron, Flux, Solder
Hot glue gun
Small Punch or Screw Driver
Razor knife
Wire Strippers
Wire cutters
Sharpie or Pencil
Drill & Drill bits
Multi meter


3 Computer case fans.
3 Case fan guards.
1 Grounded Outlet 120 v.
1 Single pole toggle Switch 120v.
1 Double gang Handy Box or like me use a couple of plastic boxes to make a double. (Handy Box’s are metal)
1 12v DC power supply.
1 Single pole toggle switch for low voltage. (can get from auto stores)
Tin foil or Mylar.
12 Case fan screws or 12 8/32 x 2 screws washers & nuts.
1 Power cord.
1 Lamp Fixture Socket.
Veg light or lights of your choosing.
4 to 5 feet of low voltage wire. (like old telephone wire)
Sand paper & primer & paint if you choose to paint.

Step 2: Prep the Box

1. The door has to come off, So grab the Flat head screw driver & hammer and tap out the door pin’s and remove the door. Set aside Door as there is a little more work to be done to it later.

2. Next to come off are the Casters. Again we use the mighty Hammer to tap the caster out of there guide holes. Keep em for other projects.

3. Remove the hasp lock by tapping the retaining pin out with a small punch or screwdriver.

4. clean it up and it’s ready.

Step 3: Cutting the Holes for Switch Fans & Light

1. The Light:
Flip the chest on it’s side (pick the side you want to be top) Find the center of the area and back it up 3 inch’s from the backside of the chest so the the light is off center by a few inch’s, Mark it X marks the spot, Use the compass to mark out your hole for the Light.

2. Use a Large Drill bit you need the hole to be big enough for the Tin Snips to fit in easily. Drill through don’t worry about burrs.

3. Now the hole is cut use the Metal File to clean off the burrs.

4. Repeat this step for cutting in the 3 fans. ( Holes for fan are not the same size as light)

5. Cut in 2 holes on each side for fans and 1 more on the top by a corner. Be sure to center you fans on the side and top to provide a good air flow. I have 2 intakes and 1 exhaust on this box.

6. Once the hole for the Light & Fans are cut in, Use a Fan & drill to mark the holes for the mounting screws (Don’t try to drill the holes with the fan). Repeat this step for all 3 fans.

7. Keep your Switch close to the corner where the power will be connected. Drill the hole size appropriate for your Switch.

Step 4: Lining the Inside Box With Tin Foil or Mylar

1. Pretty simple task at this step. Grab your Tin Foil or Mylar and start to line The inside Top, Sides and the Back. I had no Mylar and went with what was available Tin foil. For a quick and easy way to stick the Foil is using some kind of silicone I used some automotive RTV Blue and put little dots on the Dull side of the Tin Foil. Just cover over the fan & light holes.

2. Use a Drill bit or sharp pencil to poke a hole through the center of the foil for the Light and fans.

3. Using a sharp razor knife slice the foil like a pizza then fold back.

Step 5: Installing the Fans, Switch & Wiring the 12 Volt System

1. Peel off the Foil star.

2. Mount the fan & fan guard.

3. Mount the Switch.

4. Insert the power supply cable though the side in a hole I did not get a pic of next to where the handy box will be mounted. Put a dab of hot glue or silicone in the hole to secure the wire.

5. Run the wires hot glue them into place. Make sure the wires are ran on the top side so to avoid water damage.

6. connecting the wires: The 2 Fans & traveler (That’s 3 conductors) get connected straight forward Red to Red Black to Black.

7. Connect all Red wires from the Fans +12 volts to one side of the Switch.

8. Connect The power in from the PSU to other side of the Switch.

9. Connect all Black wires to the ground of the PSU.

10. Hot glue the bundle of wires to foil in corner out of the way.

The 12 volt system is done.

Step 6: Installing the Bulb

I wanted to use a light bar on the inside of this project but all I had was this 55 watt veg light.

1. The hole is a snug fit so gently twist the light into the hole till the base is half way out.

2. Run a bead of Silicone or some RTV Blue like I did to seal any gaps for light to escape.

Step 7: Installing the 120 Volt Wiring

Quick parts check:

1. Grounded power cord.

2. Grounded outlet.

3. Single pole toggle switch.

1. Cut off the female end of the power cord.

2. Strip the wire into 3 conductors, Making sure you identify the common wire.

3. Depending on what kind of box you are using it’s is pretty straight forward. Place your double gang box or boxes like mine, Mark them out. Drill a couple of holes to mount the boxes to the chest. Make sure that you bond the ground from power cord to the chest by means of the screws used to fasten the box to the chest. another photo I missed . (And the correct box to use would be a Handy box with Romex connectors)

4. Use the Flat head screw driver to pop out 2 knock outs on the back of the box. Insert the power cord into the back of the box.
Insert the power cord from the light fixture. ( To keep the polarity correct you must identify the common wire on the light fixture, power cord and jumper)

5. Connect the common & Ground wires to common side of the outlet, Cut away excess wire. (you must put the wires on the screw clockwise on all screws, Or they will unwind off the screw)

6. Connect the power wire to the power side of the outlet. The power cord connection is now complete.

7. Connect the power wire from the Light Fixture to the power on side of the Switch.

8. Here we need a small jumper wire about a foot long will do, Identify a common wire. (Gives some to play with)

9. Wire the jumper to the outlet making sure you put the common on the common screw, And the power on the power screw. ( outlets have 5 screws, 2 white screws and 2 copper colored screws, And one green screw, white is common, copper is power, Green is ground)

10. Tape up the outlet with electrical black tape and it is wired.

11. Connect the hot wire from the jumper to the off side of the switch. Connect the Power wire from the light socket to the on side of the switch. Tape the Switch with electrical Black tape and it is wired.

12. Yellow wire nut the commons from the jumper & light fixture.

The 120 volt AC connections are complete Install the devices to the box.

Step 8: The Door

I didn’t want to keep this little peg board on so off it went. This is optional.

1. Hammer & Chisel the sheet off, There were only six weld points so it came off very easy.

2. Sand off the rust if any, There was no paint under this so expect some rust. clean up & paint.

3. When the paint is dry insert the door pins back in. I have a eye hook to hold the door open.

4. Puts some veggies or herb seedlings and watch em grow!

If you made it this far into the instructable and you like what you see and please leave some feedback & rate this instructable.
Happy Gardening!

DIY- Indoor Seedling Grow Box: I like to grow my own Herbs and veggies but in Mich its kinda hard to do in the winter, Plants don't care for the cold by the window and I kill more that way, So I wanted to see if we could Turn a old & really cheap junk tool chest into a energ…

Mastering The Cannabis Seedling Stage In Just 3 Steps

The seedling stage can be a looming challenge for novice growers. With these three simple steps, however, even inexperienced growers can manage their cannabis seedlings with confidence.

Three simple steps to mastering the cannabis seedling stage.

  • 1. Pick the right genetics, containers, and medium for your seedlings
  • 2. Use the right germination techniques
  • 3. Mastering the seedling stage
  • 3.a. The basics: Optimising light, temperature, and humidity for cannabis seedlings
  • 3.b. Growing seedlings outdoors
  • 3.c. Understanding the seedling stage
  • 3.d. How to water your seedlings
  • 3.e. How to prevent damping off
  • 3.f. How to prevent nutrient problems
  • 3.g. How to prevent pests and bugs
  • 3.h. How to prevent stretchy seedlings
  • 3.i. Know when and how to transplant your seedlings
  • 4. Get growing!
  • 1. Pick the right genetics, containers, and medium for your seedlings
  • 2. Use the right germination techniques
  • 3. Mastering the seedling stage
  • 3.a. The basics: Optimising light, temperature, and humidity for cannabis seedlings
  • 3.b. Growing seedlings outdoors
  • 3.c. Understanding the seedling stage
  • 3.d. How to water your seedlings
  • 3.e. How to prevent damping off
  • 3.f. How to prevent nutrient problems
  • 3.g. How to prevent pests and bugs
  • 3.h. How to prevent stretchy seedlings
  • 3.i. Know when and how to transplant your seedlings
  • 4. Get growing!

Cannabis seedlings can be tricky to keep alive, especially for rookie growers. With a solid understanding of seedlings and their requirements, though, the all-important seedling stage can be a lot less threatening. Keep reading for three simple steps to growing healthy seedlings.


When sourcing your seeds, be sure to actively search out the right strain for you; your experience and skill as a grower, budget, grow equipment, preferences in taste and effect, and whether you’re growing indoors or outdoors will determine which strain will yield the best results for you.

As for the medium, we always recommend growing in a light, well-aerated, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.3–6.5. We recommend using between 20–50% perlite in your medium to aid with soil aeration and nutrient retention. The more nutrients you plan to give your plants, the more perlite you should add to your soil to help with drainage and prevent nutrient lockout.

Remember to water just around the stem of your seedlings, and only once the soil has completely dried out (see the section on over/underwatering below for more info). Also, keep in mind that seedlings (especially autoflowering varieties) are extremely sensitive to nutrients. Never plant them into hot (nutrient-rich) soil and don’t start feeding them until they’ve grown 3–4 sets of true leaves.

When it comes to picking pots, we recommend the following approaches for autoflowering and feminized seedlings.


When growing autoflowers, we recommend planting them directly in their final pots. Because of their short life cycle, it’s best to avoid putting autoflowering strains through any kind of unnecessary stress, including transplanting. While the exact pot size you use will vary depending on the strain you’re growing and the size of your grow space, most auto growers use pots between 5–15l.


If you’re growing feminized seeds, transplanting isn’t as much of an issue since these plants have time to recover from the stress. Using Easy Start germination pots, you can support robust health right from the beginning. You’ll want to transplant your seedlings just before they start outgrowing their starter pots. We typically recommend transplanting once they’ve grown sets of true leaves that spread out to cover the full circumference of their current container.

From here, most indoor growers move their plants directly into 12l pots, but you can go above or below that to suit your particular strain and grow setup. Keep in mind that you can (and should) up-pot feminized photoperiod plants a few times to max-out development, meaning you don’t need to transplant your seedlings into a giant pot right away.


From cheap nursery containers to sophisticated smart pots, growers are spoilt for choice when it comes to picking the right container for their cannabis plants. And while it’s possible to grow great weed in cheap plastic propagation containers, there are a couple of things you’ll want to keep in mind when choosing pots for your weed plants.

• Drainage holes

Make sure your pots drain well to protect your plants against fungal pathogens and root rot. If your pots don’t already contain holes (or some other kind of mesh to allow runoff), you’ll need to puncture them yourself.

• Aeration

One of the functions of a plant’s substrate is to serve as a site for air exchange between the roots and the environment. Smart pots like the RQS Fabric Pothelp your plant’s roots respire by allowing more oxygen to reach them. This translates into faster, more vigorous growth, healthier plants, and a better harvest.

• Pot size

Keeping tiny seedlings in huge pots increases the risk of overwatering, as your plant’s roots won’t be big enough to extract all the water from their substrate. Any water that stays in the substrate will effectively drown the roots and attract pathogens and pests into your garden/grow room.


Cannabis seeds need four things in order to germinate: moisture, warmth, darkness, and time. To ensure you grow healthy seedlings, germinate your seeds using one of the following techniques.

• Paper towel method

Carefully place your cannabis seeds between a few moist pieces of paper towel, and place it all in a plastic container with a lid. Keep the container in a warm, dark place (temperatures between 20–25°C are ideal). Leave a slight crack in the lid to allow for some fresh air exchange.

• Glass of water method

Simply drop your seeds into a glass of water and let them sit in a cupboard for 24–48 hours at 20–25°C. Once you see the first signs of taproots sprouting from your seeds, they’re ready to plant. If your seeds don’t germinate after 48 hours in water, switch to the paper towel method. Don’t keep the seeds submerged for more than 48 hours or they’ll rot.

Your seeds are ready to plant once they’ve cracked open and released a small, white taproot. Plant your germinated seeds one knuckle (roughly 3–5 millimetres) deep with the taproot facing down. That way, your seedlings won’t have to reorient themselves.

• RQS Starter Kits

Alternatively, use the RQS Autoflowering or Feminized Starter Kits to provide your seeds with the perfect conditions from the get-go. This kit contains starter pots filled with perlite and beneficial bacteria, as well as a propagator and lights to breathe life into your seeds. carla


Now that your seedlings are in their soil, the real challenge begins. Cannabis seedlings are extremely fragile; armed with nothing but frail roots and a small set of cotyledons (that first set of small rectangular leaves), minor stressors can take down your seedlings in just a couple of hours. By taking the time to understand your seedlings and their specific needs, however, you’ll automatically know how to optimise their environment and help them grow into strong vegetative plants.


Seedlings have very particular needs when it comes to temperature, humidity, and lighting, and missing the mark in any of these areas can prove fatal for such small plants. For best results, we recommend growing seedlings in a propagator where you can easily create the perfect environment for them to flourish in.

• Temperature

Cannabis seedlings like daytime temperatures of 20–25°C and nighttime temperatures that are roughly 4–5°C cooler. High temperatures will stress your seedlings and stunt their growth, which, at such an early stage, can prove fatal. Dry leaves with curled up edges are a telltale sign of heat stress. With time, your seedlings might also develop other symptoms, including pale foliage and red or purple stems. Heat stress can also cause weak, wilting leaves with downward folding tips.

Cold temperatures, on the other hand, can freeze a seedling’s cells and affect its ability to transport and use nutrients, water, and oxygen. This will result in stunted growth and eventually death if not dealt with properly. Wilting foliage, slow growth, and poor plant turgor are some signs that the temperature in your grow room or propagator is too low.

• Humidity

While their roots are young and still developing, cannabis seedlings absorb water via osmosis in their leaves. To optimise this process, it’s super important to keep relative humidity levels at 40–60%.

Humidity levels below 20% will seriously stunt the growth of your seedlings and may cause them to develop symptoms similar to some nutrient deficiencies (yellow or spotted leaves). Humidity levels above 60%, on the other hand, will cause your plants to develop wet spots that can cause foliage to wilt or rot, as well as attract fungi and/or other pathogens and pests. Once your seedlings enter the vegetative phase, you should keep relative humidity at 50%.

• Lights

Seedlings are sensitive to light and will burn under strong HID or LED bulbs. Like adult plants, seedlings will develop burnt, crinkled leaves when suffering from light stress. Alternatively, seedlings that don’t get enough light will grow tall and lanky and topple over.

For best results, we recommend growing your seedlings under an 18/6 light cycle using CFL bulbs with a blue light spectrum for the first 10–14 days. Once they’ve developed healthy true leaves and at least 2–3 nodes, you can move them under stronger HID or LED lights to start vegging.


Outdoor growers obviously don’t have the liberty of being able to change the temperature or humidity with the push of a button. If you’re an outdoor grower, you have three options on how to tackle the seedling stage:

  1. Most growers choose to keep their seedlings indoors under CFL lights for the first two weeks to protect them from elements.
  2. Alternatively, you can keep your seedlings outdoors during the day (as long as temperatures sit consistently between 20–25°C) and only move them indoors at night to protect them from the cold, rain, etc.
  3. Finally, you can keep your seedlings outdoors permanently in a propagator, greenhouse, or polytunnel to provide shelter and allow you to drive up humidity and manipulate the temperature.


Inside that dark, hard shell, cannabis seeds house all the necessary genetic information to sprout and grow into big, luscious plants. When exposed to humidity and warmth, seeds are able to absorb water from their environment. This process is known as imbibition, and it’s the key to life for all plants.

Once water enters a seed, it activates special enzymes that trigger the growth of the taproot (the small white root that pops out of seeds when germinated properly). This root starts to push deeper underground in search of more water while the seed sends a shoot up and out of the soil in search of light.

Cannabis seeds already contain two cotyledons (or embryonic leaves) that unravel and push the seed casing from the shoot. After the cotyledons emerge, cannabis plants will develop their first set of true leaves. These will grow out of the main stem and have just one finger.

During the early stages of their lives, cannabis seedlings get all their energy from stores inside the seed. As their roots develop, they can absorb water via their leaves. Once your plants have developed their first sets of true leaves (that is, leaves with at least 5–7 fingers), they are no longer considered seedlings and are officially vegging.

Remember, rapid growth and vibrant green foliage are telltale signs of healthy seedlings.


There’s no universal schedule on how to water your cannabis seedlings. Instead, you’ll need to pay close attention to your plants and their medium. We recommend sticking your finger roughly 2.5cm (1 inch) into the soil and watering only when the soil is completely dry. Also, remember to water your plants close to the stem where you know their roots are. Finally, remember that your pots need to have drainage holes in the bottom so excess water can drain out.

• Overwatering

Overwatering seedlings is one of the most common (and most fatal) mistakes rookie growers make. Unfortunately, it’s an easy crime to commit; scared to let their seedlings’ soil dry out, inexperienced growers often end up watering their plants too regularly. This essentially drowns a seedling’s tiny root system, starving the plant of oxygen and causing it to droop.

Overwatering can also occur when a plant’s container is too big or too small. When growing a small seedling in a big pot, the excess soil can hold water for days in areas untouched by the plant’s roots. What you’re left with is a big container filled with wet soil that’s not only robbing your plant of oxygen, but also creating a breeding ground for fungi, bacteria, and pests.

Similarly, under-potting can be just as detrimental to your plants. Plants that are root-bound take up water very quickly, encouraging you to water them more regularly than necessary, leading to overwatering.

• Underwatering

While it’s not as common as overwatering, underwatering is definitely an issue for some beginner growers (especially those that have been warned about overwatering their plants).

Cannabis plants constantly lose moisture through their leaves in a process known as transpiration (which plays an essential role in a plant’s ability to transport water from its roots up through its stem). Hence, it’s super important they always have access to water from their soil. When a plant goes too long without water, a lot of its vital functions start to slow down. Any roots that dry out completely die off, stunting the plant’s growth or possibly killing it all together (if its root system is underdeveloped).

Unfortunately, the symptoms of underwatering are mostly the same as those of overwatering (drooping and wilting). However, you’ll be able to tell that your plants are underwatered if their soil is bone dry.


We’ve all been there; your seedlings look perfectly healthy, then suddenly you find them slumped over the edge of their containers. Within 24 hours (or sometimes less), they’ve shriveled up and died.

This phenomenon, known colloquially as “damping off”, is caused by fungi like Pythium, Botrytis, and Fusarium. While these fungi can lie dormant in soil, they grow and thrive in overly wet conditions. Overwatering and high humidity, for example, are some of the most common causes of damping off.

Unfortunately, by the time your seedlings show the first signs of damping off (a limp and discoloured stem), there’s nothing you can do to save them. We just recommend removing the affected seedlings from your grow room or propagator ASAP to avoid spreading the fungi.

To prevent damping off, make sure to keep close tabs on the temperature and relative humidity in your grow space, and avoid overwatering your plants. Also, make sure both your soil and pots drain well.

Finally, to minimise the chance of a Pythium, Botrytis, or Fusarium infestation even further, be sure to always use new soil or sterilise your soil by baking it in the oven until it reaches a temperature of 85°C.


Healthy cannabis plants look vibrant and green, and any sort of discoloration on a plant’s leaves or stems can be a sign of nutrient stress.

Remember, cannabis seeds are jam-packed with nutrients to help get your seedlings through the first stage of their life. Once these nutrients run out, it’s time for you to step in and give your plants the added nutrients they need to veg and flower properly.

• Feeding seedlings

Cannabis seedlings are super fragile and can easily “burn” in nutrient-rich soil. In general, we don’t recommend feeding during the seedling phase. Instead, keep your seedlings chilling in their Easy Start pots until they’re ready to be transplanted and start vegging.

Most blogs and forums will tell you that your plants are ready to veg after two weeks, but that’s far from true; it usually takes about 3–4 weeks from germination for your seedling to use up all the energy stored in the seed, although some plants develop faster than others. But rather than going by time, we recommend you transplant and start vegging your seedlings once they’ve developed at least three nodes and 4–5 sets of true leaves.

• Transitioning to the vegetative stage

Once you’ve transplanted your seedlings into their new pots, give them 3–7 days to adjust. Remember, transplanting is a stressful process, and your plants will need some time to recover from it. Feed your plants too early after transplanting, and they likely won’t take up all their nutrients from their medium, which can cause problems (like nutrient lockout) further down the line.

Once you’re confident your plants have recovered from being transplanted, start feeding them with a mild nutrient solution. An NPK ratio of 4:2:3, for example, is a good starting point for plants just beginning to veg.

• Nutrient burn

Growers usually run into nutrient burn when they feed their seedlings too early or when they transition into the vegetative phase (either because they transplant their seedlings into hot soil or they start feeding with a fertiliser that’s too strong). The first signs of nutrient burn are dark green leaves with burnt tips. Left untreated, nutrient burn also causes leaves to curl upwards.

Luckily, unlike some of the other seedling issues we’ve mentioned in this post, it is possible to remedy nutrient burn. Simply lay off the nutrients for at least one week and water your plants with plain, pH-balanced water. Once your plant starts to grow more healthy, green foliage, slowly dial the fertiliser back in.

Whenever you start feeding your plants, we recommend giving them half the recommended dose of fertiliser during the first week of feeding. This gives the plants time to adjust to their new diet.

• Going organic

At RQS, we’re big fans of organic cannabis gardening. No amount of chemical nutrients could ever compare to the complex mix of microorganisms that exist in organic soil.

When growing organic, the focus is all about building a vibrant soil from the get-go, rather than growing in a stagnant medium and pumping it full of chemical nutrients once a week. While it’s a lot more hands-on, the taste of organic weed is hard to beat. Just remember that organically grown plants typically don’t provide the same yields as their non-organic siblings.


Pests and plagues can destroy seedlings in less than a day. To prevent this from happening, it’s super important to keep the environment around your seedlings clean and at optimal temperatures and humidity levels. Avoid overwatering, and remember to read up on common cannabis pests so you can spot and treat them early. Some common pests to look out for include:

• Fungus gnats

These small, black, fly-like bugs feed off your plants and lay their larvae in wet topsoil.

• Spider mites

Black or red in colour, spider mites live on the underside of leaves and sometimes spin protective webs around healthy foliage. They love hot, dry conditions.

• Leaf miners

These small, slender, winged insects leave irregular snail-trail-like spots on healthy leaves.

• White powdery mildew

As the name suggests, white powdery mildew is a type of mould that forms as a white, flour-like powder on the leaves of your plants.

• Pythium and Fusarium

These fungi can be hard to spot, but white spots on wet topsoil can be an early sign of their presence.

Cannabis seedlings like warm, humid conditions. Unfortunately, pests and diseases also love these conditions. Keeping things extra clean and growing your seedlings in a propagator can help prevent an infestation.


Seedlings stretch in order to get closer to their light source. To keep your seedlings from developing unnaturally long, flimsy stalks, grow them under blue spectrum CFLs located roughly 5cm from the top of the plants. Also, avoid keeping your seedlings in the dark for 24 hours after germination (a common piece of advice on grow forums), as the lack of light will force your seedlings to stretch abnormally.


Unfortunately, transplanting seedlings is far from an exact science; rather than following a strict calendar or schedule, it’s all about paying attention to your plant and knowing which cues to look out for.

As we mentioned earlier, a good rule of thumb is to transplant seedlings when their leaves fully cover the circumference of their container. After about one week, try checking on your seedlings’ roots. If you can completely remove a seedling and all its soil, it is ready to transplant.

Remember to be very gentle when handling your seedlings and transplanting them. Any minute damage to their roots can result in a ton of stress that, for such young and fragile plants, can take a while to recover from.


Now that you know the theory behind growing healthy cannabis seedlings, it’s time to get your hands dirty. Remember to invest in one of our Starter Kits for the best, most reliable results, and keep reading our blog for more tips on growing spectacular weed at home.

Struggling with your cannabis seedlings? Click here for 3 simple steps to growing healthy seedlings, alongside tips for mastering the cannabis seedling phase.